One of Saint Paul’s newest restaurants serves a Southern-style menu with a Minnesota accent.

Co-owner Nick Rancone

Clearly, a population that has some of its roots in lutefisk and pickled herring--and toss in a slice of schwartenmagen (head cheese) for good measure--isn’t averse to an appreciative nod to pork rinds, hot Cheetos style, with cheese sauce, pickled shrimp and pigs feet with toast, fried chicken livers, sunflower slaw and Texas toast, or crispy pig ear, watercress, endive and honey and carrot dressing.

Move over kale, collard greens have the floor—along with fried green tomatoes, fingerling potato salad, Southern-fried chicken (Tennessee hot or “poultrygeist”), braised oxtail, hush puppies, butter beans and the rest of the Southern-inspired menu items at Revival. Thanks to the success of the restaurant’s first venue on Minneapolis’ Nicollet Avenue, co-owners Nick Rancone and Thomas Boemer brought Revival, scheduled to open by early October, to Saint Paul’s Selby Avenue.

Rancone calls the fare traditional. “It’s something you find on the Sunday dinner table,” he says, albeit that table might most likely be found south of the Mason-Dixon line. Rancone and Boemer, who serves as executive chef for Revival and the duo’s Corner Table, take care in sourcing ingredients. “Simple, but very intentional,” Rancone says of each choice. Revival procures its Carolina gold rice, biscuit flour and cowpeas from Southern sources, ensuring authenticity in flavor and spirit. Other items, including lard and buttermilk, are locally sourced.

While the heart of the Saint Paul venue’s menu mirrors that of Revival Minneapolis, Rancone and Boemer added some options to their latest venture. “We’re never ones to keep things the same,” Rancone says. The addition of a meat smoker supports the newest Revival’s modern barbecue program, which is good news for barbecue lovers, especially with Boemer at the helm. Boemer, who lived for a stretch in North Carolina, “had a transformative experience eating barbecue at a friend’s house, and that was that,” Rancone says. Boemer, it should be noted, is the 2015 winner of the Grand Cochon culinary contest in Aspen, Colorado.

Additionally, expanded side dish selections are offered, as is a full bar, and the best news may be—wait for it—take-out. The dessert menu may be lean on quantity, but Rancone assures it is pleasingly plump in quality. “Our pies are fantastic, and that’s something to look forward to,” he says of the fresh-made, seasonally inspired pies. Regardless of what’s on the menu, Rancone says there’s another important ingredient to a successful restaurant—focusing on the details. While Rancone handles the front of the house, Boemer commands the kitchen. “He is very meticulous about process and thoughtful,” Rancone says. “He has the ability to coax everything out of an ingredient.”

Plenty of area dining spots include Southern cooking, especially the doyenne of the deep-fryer—fried chicken—but Rancone says there’s more to experience. “We haven’t had a true representation of it in this market.” It isn’t for the lack of effort. Fried chicken is having its culinary moment, and Rancone attributes it to people’s desire to return to tradition, and food memories facilitate much of that effort. “Southern food is one of the most identifiable traditions in the U.S.,” he says. “We’re not stealing from another culture. We’re celebrating it.” Who doesn’t want to pay homage to comfort food? “At its core, it’s salty, spicy, crunchy and sweet,” Rancone says.

The original Revival restaurant was slated for Saint Paul; logistics didn’t work out the first time around, but Rancone and Boemer refused to give up. “I couldn’t be more excited to come home with a restaurant,” Rancone, originally from Saint Paul, says. While he’s wild about Saint Paul, he’s downright ecstatic about Revival’s new street address. “I can’t even imagine a more romantic intersection—Selby and Western—in the state,” Rancone says. And in August, the duo announced a new venture in another historical Saint Paul neighborhood – in 2017, they will be opening a yet-to-be named restaurant in the Keg & Case Market at the Schmidt Brewing Complex on West Seventh Street.

Fittingly, the restaurant’s moniker—Revival— has a history of its own. After “throwing a lot of names at the wall,” Rancone says the name Revival arrived by way of a few different avenues. “In a traditional sense, a revival is a religious gathering,” he says, but it also reflects breathing new life into an old tradition.

Revival, 525 Selby Ave., Saint Paul

Find them on Facebook or @RevivalMpls. Seating is available on a first-come, first-served basis.